Imagine a historic, beautiful town. What would it look like? Perhaps it would have a river running through its heart. A romantic castle overlooking the town. Beautifully paved streets. Parks. Buildings spanning a millennium. Well, that place could be Tomar: it has something old, something magical, and something different.
Defending Tomar: the castle
Let’s start with the Castle. Surrounded by a defensive wall, the stunning castle-convent, strategically overlooking town and river, is worth more than just a visit. The castle keep is one of the oldest in the country (12th century), and the round 16-sided polygonal church (also 12th century) features Gothic paintings and sculptures. The complex is quite the architectural marvel: carvings, cloisters, windows, courtyards and more. The more? Every castle needs water and in this case the impressive 7km Aqueduct of Pegões fulfills this purpose. Despite looking a little roman, it’s actually a more modern 16th century. It’s from outside Toma where you can best view the mesmerizing arches, and, if you’re brave enough, walk along its height; but not for the faint of heart.
A stroll in the park
If you fancy a break from the old and the monumental, wander from the castle over to the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes; a 39-hectre park. Originally used to provide food for the castle-convent complex, its gardens now feature manicured hedges, flower beds and shaded paths. While there, try to find the Charolinha, a mini replica of the convent, designed in the 16th century.
Architecture and show
Aside from multiple churches and chapels, the best-preserved synagogue in Portugal is located in the historic center; completed in the 15th century, it now serves as a museum and historical record of Jewish life.
However, one church you really shouldn’t miss is the Igreja de São João Batista, the spiritual and physical heart of Tomar. Known for its intricate stonework, 16th century clock and renaissance paintings, it dominates the beautiful-paved main square.
Mystery plans
An intriguing fact about Tomar is how it evolved over the centuries; or rather, how it didn’t. The Knight Templars planned the oldest quarter on a grid system. But not any grid system would do for the Knights. They chose a four-armed cross, with each arm pointing to each of the four city convents. Symbolism occurs throughout the city; the most prominent is the aforementioned Igreja de São João Batista, situated at the center of a perfect circle, lining up several oratories and convents to form the “sacred space” in which old Tomar was built.
What’s underfoot
As Tomar is very walkable, take time to look down. Wherever you walk, admire the calçada portuguesa, or Portuguese pavement; small stones skillfully laid to create unique patterns and images. Fortunately, it’s not exclusive to Tomar, but this skillful craft can be seen throughout Portugal. What is exclusive are the patterns; how many can you count?
Such a sweet place to visit
If you had your fill of buildings, pavements and parks, why not fill up on some of the sweet delights on offer? Seek out the Fatias de Tomar. Made with egg yolks and sugar, they are cooked in a special pan only sold in Tomar, before being sliced and dusted with cinnamon, anise or lemon. Or perhaps the Beija-me depressa (kiss-me-quicks), another egg-based confectionery creation, unique to Tomar. Sold in retro-style boxes, these melt-in-the-mouth delicacies have deceptively few ingredients: flour, eggs, sugar and butter.
Let Tomar light your heart
Despite all this, maybe you prefer something a little, say, striking: the Match Museum. This private collection of 43,000 matchboxes, from 127 countries, was amassed by local phillumenist Aquiles da Mota Lima. Or if that doesn’t lit your inner fire, perhaps you’d like to search for the fabled Templar treasure, or maybe the rumored secret passage, running from the castle to the Santa Maria do Olival church.
What is sure, Tomar is special: in history, architecture and food.
